Build your own flexible desk: The 2-in-1 solution for every home office

You need: Hand-held circular saws, pencil, g-clamps, pocket rule, long piece of wood, Pine three-ply board; 18 x 600 x 1200 mm, Pine three-ply board; 18 x 400 x 1200 mm

First, use a hand-held circular saw to saw off 80 mm from the longer side of one of the pine boards (600 x 1200 mm). Note: Set the mitre angle to 45°. 
The cut edge should always run parallel to the original edge (see sketch). The sawn off sheet should now be 80 mm wide and 1200 mm long. You must then cut one of the narrower pine boards (400 x 1200 mm) to size according to the same principle. However, this time, saw off two pieces of equal size (80 x 1200 mm).

You need: Cordless combi drill, 25 mm Forstner drill bit, 3.5 mm wood drill bit, Metal Drill Bit HSS-R, DIN 338 Set 6 Pieces, g-clamps, pencil, pocket rule, Pine three-ply board; 18 x 600 x 1200 mm

Mark a frame on the pine board that has not been machined (600 x 1200 mm). The distance between the frame and the edges should be 70 mm. Now mark a point at each of the corners of the frame you have drawn. On each of the narrow ends, make another mark in the centre between the two corner points. On one of the long sides of the frame you have drawn, make another mark at a distance of 370 mm from the corner marks (see sketch). Then drill through the marked corner points of the frame using a 25 mm Forstner drill bit. You must then drill through the remaining marked points with a 3 mm wood drill bit and redrill with a countersunk drill bit to a depth of approximately 2 mm.

You need: NanoBlade saw, Cordless combi drill, Suitable bit set, 3.5 mm wood drill bit, Metal Drill Bit HSS-R, DIN 338 Set 6 Pieces, pocket rule, pencil, g-clamps, Cut three-ply boards, 4 broom handles (diameter: 24 mm; length: Min. 800 mm), Spray paint (approx. 150 ml)

Then use a NanoBlade saw to trim the two cut pieces of wood (80 x 1200 mm) from step 1 to the following sizes: 80 x 435 mm (2x); 80 x 1035 mm (1x). You must also cut the four broom handles to a length of 800 mm. Use two clamps to secure the brooms when doing this. Then pre-drill two holes, one above the other, at the sawn ends of all four broom handles. These holes should be at a distance of 20 mm and 60 mm from the cut edge (see sketch). On two of the broom handles, also pre-drill a third hole offset by 90° (its distance from the cut edge should be 40 mm). You must then finish-bore all of the holes with a countersunk drill bit to a depth of 2–3 mm.

You need: Random orbit sander, Sanding Sheet Set 115 mm 25-Pieces Mixed, g-clamps, Machined three-ply boards, Wood screws (20 measuring 4 x 50 mm; 60 measuring 3.5 x 16 mm), Piano hinge (1200 x 32 mm)

In order to produce beautiful, clean edges and to prepare the wood for painting, you should then sand down all of the boards and deburr their rough edges. Then screw the trimmed wooden boards to the pre-drilled pine board (600 x 1200 mm). To do this, first screw the two small boards (80 x 435 mm) to each of the narrow sides of the frame you have drawn, right between the large holes made by the Forstner drill bit. To screw in the boards, use the pre-drilled holes and three wood screws (4 x 50 mm). The third board (80 x 1035 mm) is screwed in on the long side of the frame with four wood screws (4 x 50 mm), also using the pre-drilled holes directly between the large holes. Then reconnect the large pine board (600 x 1200 mm), which was initially divided and does not have a frame, back to the sawn off piece of wood. To do this, use two piano hinges and approx. 40 wood screws (3.5 x 16 mm). Then place the machined board on the shell that has been constructed. The shorter piece of wood with hinges should face backwards so that the larger piece at the front (the dining tabletop) can be folded up.

You need: Cordless combi drill, Suitable bit set, pocket rule, pencil, masking tape / adhesive tape, paint set, Machined boards and broom handles, Wood screws (20 measuring 4 x 50 mm; 60 measuring 3.5 x 16 mm), Eye bolts/eye bolts for wood thread; 20 x 8 mm, Brackets measuring 50 x 50 mm, Pinboard; 400 x 600 mm

To secure the tabletop, you must screw the shorter piece of wood to the side panel (80 x 1035 mm). To do this, use two brackets and ten wood screws (3.5 x 16 mm) for each bracket. Then fasten the two screw eyes on the inside of the side panels (80 x 435 mm). Make markings for two points –  at a distance of 150 mm from the side panel (80 x 1035 mm) and 40 mm from the lower desk panel respectively. Screw in one of the wood screws (3.5 x 16 mm) at the marked positions and unscrew it again. You can then screw in the screw eyes by hand. You must repeat this step for the other two screw eyes on the underside of the folding tabletop – at distances of 200 mm from the outer edge and 40 mm from the lower edge. Then, thread the line through all four eyes and tie the ends in a secure knot. Finally, insert the broom handles into the holes in the shell made by the Forstner drill bit and screw them in flush using ten wood screws (4 x 50 mm), with two at the front and three at the rear for each hole. The broom handles with three holes act as the rear table legs. You should now mask off the edges of the upper tabletop with adhesive tape and then glaze the tabletop (follow the manufacturer's specifications for drying). If you so wish, you can also attach a pinboard to the underside of the folding tabletop. You have now finished building the flexible desk 2-in-1 solution for every home office.