Floating corner bench: DIY instructions

You need: Bosch Zamo, Zamo tape adapter, Jigsaw, Jigsaw blade for hardwood, protective goggles, gloves, g-clamps, try square, Six pieces of wood, 200 x 140 mm

Is your space ready for you to work? Do you have all the materials and tools? And a bit of motivation, too? Then let’s get started! The most obvious starting point for building our corner bench is the base frame for the backrest. But seriously, preparation is the key to success for any project!
Start with the Bosch Zamo measuring tape adapter and measure 10 cm on the short side (140 mm), then mark the distance with the try square.

You first need to choose the right saw blade before you start using the jigsaw. Wide saw blades are best for straight cuts. 
 

Secure your workpiece with a G-clamp and saw through the boards one by one along the marked line. The bigger pieces will later be attached to the wall and the smaller ones will be attached to the backrest to make it as stable as possible.

Please note: Angle brackets are needed to brace the seat so that the corner bench floats. You can buy stayed brackets at the DIY store or, if you want an all-wood bench, you can simply make them yourself. We are using the DIY brackets for our project, and this is reflected in all the relevant dimensions.

You need: Bosch Zamo, Zamo tape adapter, pencil, Six pieces of wood from step 1, 200 x 40 mm, Six pieces of wood from step 1, 200 x 100 mm, Two backrests: 1650 x 160 mm

Now it’s time for the narrow pieces of wood (200 x 40 mm). First measure the drill holes with the Zamo. Place them in the centre at a distance of 50 mm from the outer edges and mark them with a pencil. Repeat with the wider pieces of wood (200 x 100 mm).

These supporting pieces not only ensure stability, but also allow you to attach the backrest to the wall later without assistance.

Have you marked all 12 pieces? Great! Let’s move on to the backrest. Mark these as well with three drill holes in the centre. The first one should be 150 mm behind the outer edge; mark it again at 675 mm and again at 150 mm in front of the other outer edge.

You need: Cordless combi drill, 4 mm Brad point drill bit, 6 mm Brad point drill bit, g-clamps, Six pieces of wood from step 2, 200 x 40 mm, Six pieces of wood from step 2, 200 x 100 mm, Two backrests: from step 2, 1650 x 160 mm, 3.5 x 35 mm Torx countersunk screws

You can finally drill all the marked holes and countersink the drill holes. (Images 1 to 3) Use the 4 mm Brad point drill bit on the smaller pieces of wood (200 x 40 mm) and the backrest and the 6 mm Brad point drill bit on the bigger pieces of wood (200 x 100 mm).

The supports for the backrest are positioned 10 mm from the top edge and centred over the hole in the backrest on the backrest and screwed in place. (Image 4).

You need: AdvancedLevel 360 with telescopic handle, Seat, 1700 x 500 mm, Seat, 1200 x 500 mm

But that’s not quite it for the preparation: you first have to determine the positions of the boards to be able to mount them precisely on the wall. To do this, lay the two oak wood boards for the seats from the wall towards the room at a right angle. The corner becomes the reference point for the cross line laser. (Image 1)

Position the cross line laser on the telescopic handle so that the red plumb spot hits the corner exactly. (Images 2 and 3) The vertical lines on the right and left of the wall mark the beginning of our bench and backrest on the wall.

You need: AdvancedLevel 360 with telescopic handle, Bosch Zamo, Zamo tape adapter, pencil

Let’s grab the Zamo and carry on. Now we’ll mark some holes – this time on the wall. Position the Zamo along the vertical line of the cross line laser, measure downwards the respective heights of the drill holes for the backrests and bench and mark them (image 1). The holes for the backrest should be 850 mm from the floor, and the holes for the seat at a height of 360 mm. (Image 2)

Position the cross line laser on the telescopic handle at the height of the backrest and measure the distances for the drill holes. Work from the outside in towards the corner with the following measurements: 100 mm, 100 mm, 575 mm, 100 mm, 575 mm, 100 mm, 100 mm. (Image 3)

Repeat for the other wall. (Image 4).

You need: AdvancedLevel 360 with telescopic handle, Bosch Zamo, Zamo tape adapter, pencil

Now we move down to the next level with the cross line laser to the seat height marking (360 mm).

We are also using the sets of wooden brackets made specifically for the corner bench as a reference at this stage.

Use the Zamo measuring tape adapter to measure the distances for the drill holes along the horizontal laser line and mark them. Again, work along the line from the outside in towards to the corner with the following measurements: 350 mm, 100 mm, 700 mm, 100 mm, 350 mm.

And again, repeat on the other wall.

You need: Cordless combi drill, 8 mm masonry drill bit, protective goggles, Six pieces of wood from step 3, 200 x 100 mm, Four DIY wooden brackets or stayed brackets, 400 x 250 mm, 8 mm anchors for the wall, 6 x 80 mm Torx countersunk screws

Now for the serious part: clamp the masonry drill bit, drill the marked holes and insert the anchors.

First screw in the pieces of wood for the backrest and then the base frame of your choice for the seat (see note in step 1).

You need: Cordless combi drill, protective goggles, Seat, 1700 x 500 mm, Seat, 1200 x 500 mm, Flat connector, 140 x 55 x 2 mm, 3.5 x 35 mm Torx countersunk screws

All that preparation is paying off – now you can just zip through the rest! First place the longer seat onto the first sets of brackets on the wall, then the shorter one onto the second sets of brackets.

Get down on the floor and screw the seats to them from underneath. You can use a flat connector to hold the two boards together for better stability.

You need: AdvancedLevel 360 with telescopic handle, Cordless combi drill, Backrests from step 3, 3.5 x 35 mm Torx countersunk screws

Dare to sit on it yet? Sure, if no one’s watching! But if anyone’s around, you should really add the finishing touches: position the cross line laser once again at the height of the backrest (850 mm) and turn it on. Now place the backrest onto the pieces of wood and align the outer edge on the laser cross line. Screw it in – and you’re DONE!