DIY bar with a counter: the centrepiece of your next party
- Difficultyhard
- Cost64-85 £
- Duration5-6 h
Introduction
A bar with a counter is to a cocktail party at home what a tiny umbrella is to a drink – that special something! Especially when you’ve built it yourself using an old wardrobe, you can use indoors and outdoors and it’s even easy to transport. Our step-by-step guide and ‘Planning and background knowledge’ section will tell you everything you need to know to build your own DIY bar.
Have you heard about our 18-volt system yet? It offers a huge variety of devices for many different applications. The thing that makes the project below so special is that you can use the same rechargeable battery for every part of this project. Simply swap out the battery pack, insert it into a different device that’s part of the 18-volt system and move on to the next step.
Pay attention to occupational health and safety every step of the way to protect yourself and your health. You’ll find all the important information you need to know in our overview of Safety precautions for DIY projects.
- Square
- pencil
- g-clamps
- folding rule
- plastic sheet
- Outline board, 617 x 1,160 mm
- 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 48 x 1,064 mm (A)
- 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 70 x 1,316 mm (B)
- Wardrobe door, 500 x 1,600 x (27 mm) (C)
- Wardrobe side panel, 270 x 1,690 x 22 mm (D)
- Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,690 x 20 mm (E)
- Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,600 x 20 mm (F)
- 2 French hinges, 195 x 35 mm
- 2 Grendel latches, 40 x 75 mm
- Box closer latch, 49 x 13
- Table hinge, 32 x 101 mm
- 2 M8 self-locking nuts
- 4 M8 washers
- 2 M8 carriage bolts x 100 mm
- Wood screws, 3 x 50 mm
- Wood screws, 3 x 20 mm
- Wood screws, 3 x 16 mm
- Weatherproof wood paint
Let's go - step by step
Saw the parts of the wardrobe
You need: Cordless combi drill, Standard Screwdriver Bit Mixed Sets, Hand-held circular saws, Random orbit sander, Sanding and Polishing with Random Orbit Sanders, Vacuum, g-clamps, Wardrobe door, 500 x 1,600 x (27 mm) (C), Wardrobe side panel, 270 x 1,690 x 22 mm (D), Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,690 x 20 mm (E), Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,600 x 20 mm (F)
Our bar with a counter shouldn’t just look smart and be foldable, we also want to be able to prepare different drinks on it. The countertop must therefore offer enough space for shakers, bottles, glasses and ingredients. At the same time, it should be stable and relatively lightweight so that one person can carry the DIY bar . We found an old wardrobe to be the perfect material – so let’s get down to business.
First, you should remove any distracting fittings such as hinges, handles and trims until the wardrobe doors and walls are standing in front of you in individual pieces. Select the parts you want to work with and take the length measurement for your bar. Use the dimensions in our material description as a guide.
Clamp the panels tightly and saw them to size using a hand-held circular saw. You can then sand off the old paint or varnish and smooth the sawn edges with a random orbit sander. Connect a wet and dry vacuum cleaner if you want less dust when sawing and sanding.
Making the outline board and sawing the slats to size
You need: Jigsaws, Stichsägeblatt für gerade Schnitte, pencil, folding rule, g-clamps, Outline board, 617 x 1,160 mm, 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 48 x 1,064 mm (A), 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 70 x 1,316 mm (B)
A folding DIY counter with cover panels and latches sounds complicated at first. But don’t fret. You can make this project significantly easier for yourself: Draw the side view of your DIY bar 1:1 on an outline board. It is represented by the large rectangle in our sketch. This true-to-scale drawing makes it easier for you to measure the lengths and mark the angles and hinge positions in all the following steps because you can simply place your workpieces on it like using a template.
Start by placing one of the (A) squared timbers on to your cross section. Remove the bracket and saw off the top end with a jigsaw. You now just have to place it in the drawing, mark it and saw it to the final length.
Repeat this step for all of the squared timbers. By the way, you can find out everything you need to know about choosing the right jigsaw blade in our overview of saw blades. Our guide to changing jigsaw blades will show you how to use it correctly. Don’t forget: Thicker squared timbers and rough cuts need even more power – a reciprocating saw is better suited for this than a jigsaw.
Sawing out slots
You need: Jigsaws, Stichsägeblatt für gerade Schnitte, Cordless combi drill, suitable bit set, g-clamps, pencil, Square, 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 48 x 1,064 mm (A), 2 WoodPro slats, 42 x 70 x 1,316 mm (B), 2 Grendel latches, 40 x 75 mm, 2 French hinges, 195 x 35 mm, Wood screws, 3 x 20 mm
Preparation is still the be-all and end-all. You need a recess for the hinges on each of the (A) squared timbers to make it easy to fold up the bar. Place the folded hinge on the beam and mark its depth (image 1).
Saw out the recess with a jigsaw. Then, sand the sawn edges and the remaining boards so that they’re smooth. Make sure that you attach the hinge flush with the top edge of the squared timber when you screw it on so that the countertop lies flat later on (image 2).
You can now attach the Grendel latches to the (B) squared timbers. They will hold the countertop in place later (image 3). Place the squared timber into position on the outline panel and place the latch so that it is centred on the countertop (image 4). Then mark it, screw it on – and then you’re done (image 5).
Screwing the squared timbers together
You need: Cordless combi drill, 5 piece-wooddrill-bit-set, Standard Screwdriver Bit Mixed Sets, X-Line Drill and Screwdriver Bit Sets, X-Line Drill and Screwdriver Bit Sets, g-clamps, pencil, Outline panel, 2 wooden slats, 20 x 60 mm, 2 M8 carriage bolts x 100 mm, 2 M8 self-locking nuts, 4 M8 washers
Screw the squared timbers mirror-image to one cross each; the (B) squared timbers must both be on the outside.
You can see on the sketch that the longitudinal axis of the (B) squared timber is not centred. This is because the (A) squared timbers, including the countertop, should fit into the width of the (B) squared timbers when the bar is folded together (image 1).
Again, it’s easiest to determine the crossing point of the axes using the outline panel. Place the two beams on top of each other as if they were ‘folded’ and rotate the (A) squared timber into the position required. Draw the holes for the axis and drill them with the cordless combi drill.
Put a washer between the squared timbers to make it easier for them to rotate and connect them with a carriage bolt. Use a self-locking nut and washer to ensure that the cross construction holds securely.
Mounting the legs
You need: 5 piece-wooddrill-bit-set, Standard Screwdriver Bit Mixed Sets, g-clamps, Wardrobe door, 500 x 1,600 x 27 mm (C), Cross legs for the bar (from step 4), Wood screws, 3 x 20 mm
Place the wardrobe door (C, see sketch in step 4) face down on your workbench and clamp it with G-clamps. On the outline panel, measure the point at which point the bolt of the (B) squared timber should protrude into the panel, and drill the hole accordingly.
You now have the perfect support. Insert the bolt of the latch into the hole and unfold the legs. The bolt holds it in the correct position, and all you have to do is screw on the hinge (see image).
Attaching the veneers
You need: Cordless combi drill, 5 piece-wooddrill-bit-set, Standard Screwdriver Bit Mixed Sets, g-clamps, Structure from step 5, Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,690 x 20 mm (E), Wardrobe rear panel, 560 x 1,600 x 20 mm (F), Wood screws, 3 x 50 mm
Your bar now looks more like a bar. It can stand up and is ready to use. We’re almost done, so let’s turn our attention to the finer details. Fold up the bar and place it on your workbench. The work surface of the countertop should be facing upwards. The first cover panel (F, image 2) goes on the (A) squared timbers about 6 mm from the countertop. Pre-drill and screw them together.
You can then attach the second cover panel (E) onto the (B) squared timber. Leave a distance of 100 mm at the top for the counter.
Attach the counter
You need: Cordless combi drill, Cordless combi drill, g-clamps, Wardrobe side panel, 270 x 1,690 x 22 mm (D), Bar structure from step 6, 2 box closer latches, 49 x 13, 2 table hinges, 32 x 101 mm, Wood screws, 3 x 16 mm
Set up the bar and put the board for the counter in place. It is held in place on both sides, a box closer latch on the back and a table hinge on the front.
Draw the positions of the (B) squared timbers on the board for the counter and use the spade drill bit to make a cup hole approximately 10 mm deep. This way you have enough space for the box closer latch.
Screw the counter hook over the recess (image 1).
Now, put the board back in place and hang the box closer latches on the hooks. Open them slightly – there must be tension on the buckle so that the latch is also stable. Draw the drill holes accordingly and tightly screw on the latch (image 2).
You can now put the table hinge in place on the front side in place without worrying. First, screw it to the (B) squared timbers and then mount it to the counter top (image 3).
Giving the bar a splash of colour
You need: Paint spray system, Protective sheet, Masking tape, Wood paint
All you need to do now is pick the perfect colour to give your bar that cocktail party feeling. We opted for a sophisticated graphite black. Use protective sheets to set up a painting area. Make sure your paint is weatherproof and environmentally friendly. Eco-labels such as the ‘Blauer Engel’ (blue angel) logo or the EU Ecolabel are good things to look out for.
Protecting the metal fittings from paint
You can use a paint spray system to easily apply paint from all sides. You’ll find everything you need to know about paint spray systems in our paint spray guide. Of course, you can also use a regular brush to paint the bar. The paint still has to dry, but then there’s only one thing left to say: Well done, cheers!
No matter how good the party is, at some point your feet will want a break – a DIY pallet sofa with a backrest is the perfect place to the weight off. The DIY hanging bed is also a great place to have a rest.
Planning and background knowledge for the DIY bar for home
Building a DIY bar with a counter can be a great upcycling project. However, you will probably have a few questions before you get started. What types of counters and bars are suitable for your house or flat, what dimensions make sense and how do you best store your bar accessories? Which materials are particularly suitable for DIY projects, especially if it’s meant to be an upcycling project? We have all the answers in the sections below.
A DIY counter or a DIY bar – what’s the difference?
A counter generally means something similar to a table that separates the staff from the patrons of an establishment. The word counter also refers to the same sort of thing in shops, but they can also be called a sales counter or a shop counter. The catering trade uses the terms bar and counter, as well. To put it another way, the two terms basically mean the same thing.
Which bars are suitable for at home?
If you want to build a DIY counter, it should of course meet your individual requirements. Maybe you need it for your party cellar, or you’re looking to build a DJ counter? Think about what you want to use your DIY bar for beforehand and draw up a construction plan or adapt our step-by-step guide accordingly.
Below you will find some of the most popular counter models for inspiration. You can design all of them to have either one or two levels. This means that they consist either of only one countertop or two but at different heights, which are intended as a working and serving area, or can also be used as countertops on two different levels (if you integrate the unit into a kitchen, for instance).
American diner bar:
The classic design of an American diner bar dates back to the 1950s. It features an elongated counter with diner stools firmly bolted to the floor. The seat height of the stools is deliberately kept rather low. Originally, this was so that guests dining alone could sit at the bar with others and not occupy a table just by themselves.
Folding counter:
Folding counters are bar counters that – as the name suggests - can be unfolded and folded again in a few easy steps. This means that they save a lot of space and are particularly suitable for occasional use on special occasions or where space is limited.
Speaking of special occasions: Take a look at our DIY candy cart or the DIY photo booth for the garden.
Mobile bar:
The situation is similar with the mobile bar. This narrow bar is mounted on castors can be used for receptions, for example, and can be set up anywhere. If you build a bar out of wood or other materials, you can easily add castors.
Cocktail bar:
A cocktail bar is a narrow two-tier bar with a raised counter, which is designed for preparing mixed drinks and usually doesn’t have an integrated tap. You can find this kind of model in our step-by-step guide, and it can also be folded up.
Cellar bar:
DIY cellar bars were particularly fashionable in the 1970s – the age of the party cellar. It’s often placed in the corner of the room for space reasons and has an L shape.
Wine-barrel bar:
Are you looking for a space-saving way to integrate a bar into your home or want to serve wine in an original way? A bar made from an old wine barrel offers you enough space for wine and glasses inside the barrel, while the bottom of the barrel can function as a table.
Outdoor counter:
If you want to build a DIY outdoor counter, you can use our step-by-step guide and only have to make sure that the wood is weatherproof or that you use a tarpaulin to protect the counter from the weather when you’re not using it. And check out how to build a DIY outdoor kitchen if you want to turn your lawn into a real foodies’ paradise.
How large should a DIY bar be?
You are free to decide how high your DIY bar counter should be. There is no standard here that you have to follow. Heights vary from 110–130 cm for larger rooms in which the counter stands alone, or 85–91 cm if the DIY bar needs to fit in with the rest of the furnishings such as kitchen furniture, for example. Make sure that the working height is comfortable for you. Is your counter just one part of a larger kitchen overhaul? Check out our kitchen renovation tips.
The width of your bar also depends on how you want to use it. A single-level counter to serve as a countertop would have to be at least 80 cm wide. You can also integrate shelves or drawers underneath to store bar accessories.
Calculate about 60 cm of space per person if you want your guests to be able to stand at the counter. It goes without saying that the size of your DIY bar and the shape you choose ultimately depend on the size of the room and where windows and doors are located.
If you want to build a two-level bar, the top shelf on which glasses or bottles are normally placed can be quite narrow. 20–40 cm is enough.
Are you planning to put some bottles of spirits and glasses out as decoration? We’ll show you how to make a stylish wall shelf using plate holders or a free-standing shelf with a compartment. If you still want more DIY shelf ideas, then you’ll find what you’re looking for here.
DIY renovation ideas
Which materials are suitable for a DIY bar?
Counters come in different styles and designs. The materials you use define the design. That’s why we’re going to introduce you to a few commonly used materials that you can use to build a bar at home that suits your interior design.
Wood:
Depending on how they are treated or painted, wooden counters can look warm and cosy or cool and stylish. You can highlight the wood grain as a visual feature and varnish, oil or wax the wood. This way, you also make sure that a spilled drink isn’t a problem.
By the way, If you don’t have enough space for a bar with a counter, then check out our other step-by-step guide on how to build a compact DIY garden bar using pallets.
Metal:
Counters made of metal or combinations of materials, such as metal and glass, look cooler and more modern. A metal counter is ideal for a minimalist kitchen or a living space with an industrial look, for example. However, building counters out of metal requires a little more knowledge than a simple wooden bar.
Plastic:
Plastic has the major advantage of being lightweight, but always keep the stability and the ecobalance of your material in mind.
Beer crates:
You could also build a bar using beer crates. You can stack them and screw them together. And then you just need to attach a wooden panel to create a counter. Remember to include storage space under the countertop in your design.
Concrete:
There are also bars made of concrete. They often appear very solid and rather cold, but combined with other materials such as wood, they can also be used to create cosier versions. Of course, a concrete bar only makes sense if there is enough space and after sufficient planning and consideration. Concrete cannot simply be unscrewed or dismantled, unlike other materials.
Glass blocks:
Glass blocks can be bought in different colours and with different structures. Unlike other materials, they are translucent, so you can create interesting light shows on your DIY bar if you install the appropriate lighting. Glass blocks are relatively easy to join together with mortar.
OSB boards/chipboards:
OSB boards are a good and inexpensive choice of material. You can use them for the panelling and for the different levels of your DIY counter. However, bear in mind that OSB boards are not waterproof and you should definitely treat them with a suitable varnish. Chipboard is also suitable for building a bar – with both materials you can choose version that has already been coated or embellish it later with slats or veneer, for example.
What other features and ideas are there for a DIY bar?
Your DIY bar is ready, but it’s still missing that certain something? Here are a few ideas for social evenings.
You can make your DIY counter more interesting with indirect lighting. The best way to do this is to attach self-adhesive LED strips, for example, under the bar counter. LED strips that allow you to control brightness and colour from your smartphone are especially practical.
Speaking of lights, find out how to build a ceiling lamp from an old wooden beam or make an elegant DIY standing lamp – both of which make great bar lighting.
You may also want to offer your guests somewhere to sit. Bar stools right at the counter are the obvious choice. We have step-by-step guide for building DIY upcycled concrete stools. Simply adjust the leg length to the height of the counter. Still need more DIY seating ideas? You can build a DIY corner bench or make stools out of old car tyres. We also have many more DIY upcycling ideas for home and garden for you to discover.
Provided you have electricity – and preferably also water – connected to your party cellar, you could even install a draught tap in your DIY bar or counter. All components except for the dispenser and tap are located underneath the counter. This will hide the unsightly hoses and make the counter look neat and tidy. You’ll need at least one barrel refrigerator to keep the barrels cool if you’re going to use it regularly.