Add a touch of greenery with a DIY wall garden

The first thing you need for your wall garden is a frame, which will be screwed behind the window later on. This is formed of a square outer frame with an intersection inside it made up of six wooden slats. The exact length of these slats depends on the dimensions of the window you’re using. The window we used measures 30 x 60 cm.

It’s now time to measure the window so you can determine the length of the slats. Important: always place the folding rule in the centre of the window slats when measuring them as the frame will also be positioned here later so that it’s not visible from the front. You will need the following slats:

Square outer frame:
– 2x vertical slats that are the same length as the vertical outer measurement of the window frame up to the beginning of the window arch (see image)
– 2x horizontal slats that are the same length as the inner measurement between the two vertical slats mentioned above

Intersection:
– 1x horizontal slat that is the same length as the horizontal slats mentioned above
– 1x vertical slat that is the same length as the inner measurement of the bottom horizontal slat to the highest point of the window arch

Now, use a pencil to mark out the measured lengths on the two wooden slats and then use the AdvancedCut 50 to saw them accordingly into six slats. Make sure that the wood is firmly clamped to your workbench using G-clamps.

The next step will be to screw the frame together. For this, you’ll first need to join together all of the slats you’ve sawn to length – except the vertical slats for the intersection – to make the frame you want. Then, mark three drill holes in the middle of each of the two vertical slats of the frame – one halfway up the slat and two more on the left and right at the height of the opposite horizontal slats.

Then, use the PSB 18 LI-2 Ergonomic and a 3-mm Brad point drill bit to drill a hole in each of the six marked positions. To screw the frame together, use the IXO and six wood screws (3.5 x 30 mm) to attach the vertical slats to the horizontal ones via the pre-drilled holes.

To complete the intersection, take the long vertical slat and position it in the centre of the frame. This is attached to the slat frame without screws by pushing it together using recesses in the two upper horizontal slats and the slat itself. To create the recesses, first mark the width of the long vertical slat in the centre of the frame’s two upper horizontal slats. Then, determine the depth of the recesses by marking half the width of the vertical slat, i.e. 2.5 cm, on both of the horizontal slats. Repeat this process on the vertical slat using the same dimensions of the two upper vertical slats.

Using the markings as a guide, saw out the recesses with the PST 18 LI. The vertical slat can then be pushed into the frame using the recesses. Tip: add some wood glue into the recesses before you insert the slat so that it’s more secure.

Place the wooden frame on the rear side of the window. Then, hold the veneer strip for the round arch over the highest point of the protruding vertical slat to determine the required width and length. The width of the veneer strip must be equal to the depth of the wooden frame so that both are flush with each other. The length of the veneer strip needs to be shortened so that it can be attached at the height of the top horizontal slat. To do this, first make the markings.

Next, use the IXO universal cutting adapter to cut the veneer strip to the length and width needed, and then use the PTK 3.6 LI to attach it to the left and righthand side of the top horizontal slat and at the top at the protruding vertical slat.

It’s now time to add a back panel to the slat frame. To do this, lay the frame on the plywood board and transfer the measurements on to the board. Then, use the PST 18 LI to saw the back panel and use the PTK 3.6 LI to attach it to the slat frame..

Lay the wire mesh on the back panel and cut it to size with the EasyPrune before then attaching it to the back panel with the PTK 3.6 LI. So that you can attach the wooden frame to the back of the window later, screw four metal brackets, each with two screws (3 x 14 mm), to all four corners of the window frame using the IXO and off-set angle adapter.

You’re nearly done! Now, lay the frame on the back of the window and screw it to the metal brackets. If you’re planning to hang your wall garden later on, you then need to screw two flat connectors to the back panel of the frame using the IXO and four wood screws (3 x 14 mm). Screw one flat connector on in the centre at the highest point of the round arch and the other in the centre of the lowest horizontal slat.

The decorative window can now be filled with soil from above. A spoon handle is handy for pushing the soil through the wire mesh. Before planting your succulents, carefully uncover their roots. Then, use a wooden skewer to guide the roots through the wire mesh. To ensure that the plants remain in position even after the frame has been hung, you should leave the window in place for about two weeks beforehand as this will allow the roots to stabilise in the soil.