Build your own headboard: For a cosy bedroom look

It’s exciting to see how you can make your own unique furnishings out of old furniture. All you need is a little creativity and a few additional materials and tools.

Have you got everything you need? Then let’s get started. The headboard will be made up of two separate frames joined by a toggle latch. To make sure that the upper and lower frames are the same size, you must first cut both sides of the wooden shelf to equal lengths. If the shelf has legs, make sure to cut these off.

In the next step, you will measure the length and width of the frame. You will need to know the size of the frame to determine the length of the jute strips. Position the Zamo at the end of the wooden frame and use the wheel adapter to measure the length of the frame (172 cm in our case). Repeat the process to measure the width of the side section (this was 50 cm in our example). Add 8 cm to the length and 4 cm to the width to make sure you have enough overlapping material to tack the jute strip to the frame later on.

Use the Zamo to transfer your length measurements to the jute strips by measuring the length on the strip using the wheel adapter and marking with a pencil. Then cut the strips at each marking. Both frames will be covered in the same way, so you will need a total of 12 (2 x 6) strips with a length of 180 cm and 46 (2 x 23) strips with a length of 54 cm.

Now take the 180-cm jute strips and tack 6 strips to the back side of each frame so that they run horizontally across the front of the frame. Tack each strip first to one side of the frame and then to the other, making sure that the strips are pulled tightly across the frame.

The aim is to weave the jute strips into a chessboard pattern. To do this, you must weave the vertical strips between the horizontal strips, alternately feeding the vertical strips above and below the horizontal strips. A note before proceeding: Before tacking down the vertical strips, weave them into the horizontal strips, checking the pattern and adjusting the position of the strips as needed. Then tack each strip first to one side of the frame and then to the other side, making sure to check the tension of the strips as you go. Repeat these steps to attach the strips to the second frame.

In this step, you will prepare the frames to be mounted on the wall. Position the Zamo at the edge of the headboard and measure a length of 30 cm toward the middle of the frame. Repeat for both sides. Mark both drilling holes. Find the exact centre of each frame and mark this point as well.

Now you must drill holes in the headboard so that you can securely mount it to the wall. Drill holes on the sides of the frame at the points you marked earlier on.

In our example, we use four squared timbers to mount the frames to the wall. Use the Zamo tape adapter to measure out the positions for the drill holes. To do this, position the Zamo at the edge of the squared timber, and use the tap adapter to measure a length of 10 cm. Mark each point in the centre of the squared timber.

Now you can drill a hole at each of the markings you have made. Make sure that you drill each hole at a right angle (image 1).

Then use the countersink cutter to countersink the drill holes in one side of the squared timber (image 2). This will prevent the wood from splitting when you screw it into place later on. Now repeat both steps with the three remaining squared timbers.

In this step, you will position the four squared timbers so that they align with the centre of the bed. The squared timbers will serve as the mounting brackets for the headboard. First, mount the Quigo Green cross line laser to a tripod. Adjust it so that the laser cross lines align with the centre of the bed.

Start by determining the vertical position of the two woven frames. Position the Zamo on the vertical cross line and use the tape adapter to measure the positions of each frame,  starting with the uppermost frame and working down. In our example, we position the uppermost frame at a height of 130 cm. Since the squared timber adds a width of 2 cm, we made the mark for our drill hole at 128 cm. We position the lower frame at a height of 77 cm. For the second frame, we subtracted the width of the squared timber and placed our mark at 75 cm.

Align the Quigo Green horizontally with the upper mark. Make sure that the vertical laser line remains aligned with the mark (image 1).

Now measure the horizontal positions of the squared timbers. Position the Zamo on the vertical laser line and use the tape adapter to measure distances of 46 cm and 66 cm to the right along the horizontal line (images 2 and 3). Use your pencil to mark the two drill holes for the squared timber on the upper right side. Repeat the same procedure on the left side. You have now marked the positions of the two upper squared timbers.

Now align the laser cross lines with the lower mark. Again, make sure that the vertical laser line remains aligned with the mark (image 4). Just like in the previous step, use the Zamo to measure and mark the drill holes for the squared timbers you will use to mount the headboard to the wall (images 2 and 3).

Now, use the drill to drill holes in the spots you have marked on the wall. Then, sink a wall plug into each hole. You can now screw the squared timbers to the wall.

You’re nearly done! Now you must attach the frames to the wall. Start with the lower frame. Hang the headboard on the bottom two squared timbers and screw it to the timbers from above using the pre-drilled holes. Repeat this process for the upper frame. 

Finally, to increase the stability of the headboard, use a toggle latch to connect the sides of the frames. Your DIY woven headboard is finished! Now it’s time to lie back and relax.